Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2014


There is got to be something said about Maria Grazia Chiuri's and Pierpaolo Piccioli's devotion to the aesthetics of couture. While an increasing number of designers are starting to push more and more towards demi-couture, Vionnet and arguably Dior being good examples, they are still creating collections that feed the imagination and keep the intricate design details of couture alive.

Like their last couture effort (which I discussed my love for here) there is certainly something mythical and dark about this collection. But instead of the heavy fairytale influences of Fall 2013 this effort instead takes influence from operas.


From the opening gown, a parchment coloured tulle piece embroidered with the score of La Traiata to a Carmen inspired bronze pleated dress embroidered with lace and a stunning cape covered with multicoloured butterflies made of dyed feathers an ode to Madame Butterfly to the finale a gorgeous black gown adorned with greenery and a tiger influenced by Delibes Indian set Lakme the collection is like a love letter to the history of opera.


Then there is less obvious the simple draped gowns in shades of maroon, grey and white inspired by operas by Henry Purcell and Claude Debussy which will probably prove to be the most popular pieces, not including red carpet appearances, from the collection.


All and all after four years as the creative heads of Valentino couture Chiuri and Piccioli have certainly made their mark on the house and couture as a whole. There consistency in showcasing collections that thread the line perfectly between the decadence of couture and the essence of wearability while also both refreshing Valentino as a brand and respecting its history is something that is rarely seen in couture at the moment and makes every new couture season just that little bit more exciting.



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