A Few Days in Taiwan

Last updated: Jan 2022

For the first leg of my recent Trans Mongolian adventure I took a slight detour to explore the sights and most importantly the food of Taiwan. As an island with a varied history of occupation and rich Indigenous culture, Taiwan is not like anywhere else in Asia. Though officially called the Republic of China you would be hard-pressed to find anyone within the island nation who refers to their homeland as such, and that is just where the very long list of contradictions and individuality begin.

My favourite of these contradictions and probably the best example of Taiwan’s individuality within Asia is the countries attitude towards Japan who occupied the island for 50 years. Unlike the vast majority of their counterparts, like Koreans and Chinese, Taiwanese, well at least from what I heard, actually look back favourably on Japanese occupation and credit them for helping to kick-start their economy and improve infrastructure (note: the Japanese infrastructure is, to nicely put it, functional but not exactly visually appealing). This favourability exists even though the Japanese, as a typical colonial power with grandiose ideas of their own superiority, attempted to make any existing culture on the island disappear. In contrast, many Taiwanese people I meet actually, pretty loudly I might add, spoke more about the turbulence and violence that was the first few years of rule under Chiang Kai-shek, who from the outside looking in appears to be the nations hero.

This varied history is what makes Taiwan so unique and, much like my home in Australia, a bit of a jumble of everything and every culture that has ever stepped foot on its shores. It’s also what may fall in love with the little nation that is full of warm people, mouth-watering food, stunning beaches and landscapes and daily heat that could fry an egg.

Though I only spent five days there I still like I got a pretty decent feel like the country by making use of the excellent and cheap transport but I still definitely plan to visit one day again. Although in the future I will hopefully be able to explore more of this country and stuff my face with its drool-worthy food, here are my tips and notes for a couple of days in Taiwan.

Explore:

National Palace Museum: breakups are hard on anyone but political breakups do tend to be the hardest of them all. Case in point the political breakup between mainland China and Taiwan which saw 700,000 of China’s ancient artefacts dating back as far as the Neolithic age find their way to this palace come museum on the outskirts of Taipei. The museum’s most famous artefacts, a jade cabbage and a stone that resembles a slice of pork belly may seem odd taken out of context but they are strangely appealing in real life once you push past the hundreds of tourists armed with smartphones and cameras.

Elephant Mountain: I may have looked like an extremely sweaty mess once I reached the top of this mountain hike, but the views, including the infamous Taipei 101, are well worth it.

Bopiliao Old Street: Once occupied by the Japanese, Taipei and Taiwan’s other cities’ Chinese architecture was mostly replaced by some frankly ugly and very functional Japanese designs. This slightly redeveloped open museum in the heart of Taipei, with its narrow streets dating back to the Qing dynasty, remains one of the only fully visible historic streetscapes making it well worth a late afternoon wander.

Huashan 1914 Creative Park: This vast urban park and creative space in the Zhongzheng district is open 24/7 and a favourite with basically every demographic group in Taipei. Filled with dozens of restaurants, galleries and boutiques, it would be easy to spend all day here, particularly if you manage to avoid the massive crowds this place usually attracts and some of the more Western and commercial options.

Taroko National Park: I hate being one of those people, but if you only have limited time in Taiwan, make sure a day trip to Taroko is on your list. Whether you choose the more relaxed and well-travelled route through the park and its main attractions or choose to do the stressful walk along the cliffs on the Zhuliu Old Trail, you would be crazy not to take the train trip from Taipei to explore a little of Taiwan’s crazy natural beauty. Bonus: it is also significantly cooler here than in Taipei.

Maokong: Also more on the cooler side is this cute but quite touristy mountain town situated in the middle of the tea fields on the outskirts of Taipei. Accessible via a very cutesy fruit-themed gondola, this mountain town is filled to the brim with excellent tea houses, hikes and impressive temples. Although it is a tourist hotspot, particularly among those from mainland China, it didn’t even feel like it was anything but a sleepy and relaxing place to escape from the city.

Jiufen: Famous for its scenery and influence on Spirited Away, Jiufen is perhaps the most tourist-filled town I have ever visited. Buses and buses of group tours and individual travellers descend on this historic town filled with tiny, spiralling streets 24/7. Although these crowds do become slightly annoying after a while, the sheer beauty of its stores and teahouses and its unique street food and giftware make it bearable and a very worthwhile day trip from Taipei.

eat:

(because going to Taiwan and not eating the local food should be crime)

Night Markets: As Google and mostly every blog and travel TV host, including the late great Anthony Boudain, will tell you: don’t leave Taiwan without visiting at least one-night market. Visible by their bright glowing red gates that act as a beacon to tourists and locals alike, night markets are the best place to taste everything Taiwan offers in terms of editable goods, hands down. Although you cannot really make a wrong choice when choosing a night market, my personal favourite in Taipei was Raohe which, despite being full of tourists and locals alike, is home to the infamous pepper beef or pork buns and has some of the cities best stinky tofu if you are brave enough. Also worth the trip and quickly done after Jiufen is Keelung’s far more relaxed seafood orientated night market, particularly if you are keen on trying an oyster omelette.

Bubble Tea: Although this Taiwanese invention is available worldwide now, there is something to say about sipping on an ice-cold bubble tea in Taipei’s heat. Overall I found all the bubble tea here significantly better than the stuff at home (the pearls weren’t chewy or rubbery). Still, I do hold a special place in my heart for CoCo and the apparent birthplace of modern bubble tea Chun Shui Tang Teahouse.

Din Tai Fung: My love for this infamous Taiwanese dumpling chain is endless and perhaps a little unhealthy for my body and wallet. As with the night markets, it should be a crime to leave Taiwan without visiting at least one of the chain outlets and trying their super delicious and famous for reason dumplings.

Fu Hang Dou Jiang: Fried dough dipped in sweet soy milk may sound like a slightly odd breakfast but there is a reason that Taipei locals line up weekdays and weekends alike for shaobing, a roasted flatbread with sesame seeds, crispy youtiao and sweet dou jiang, a sweet and super fresh soy milk.

Mango Shaved Ice at Smoothie House: Tasting this sickly sweet dessert at its most well-known home often means waiting for a while, but you shouldn't leave Taiwan without at least one taste. It is not easy to attempt to eat close to a kilo of fruit and delicious dairy products standing up but believe me (and the constant lines) it is definitely trying, even if it means skipping a meal.