Seoul
If my trip to Seoul could be summarised within a cheesy blurb I believe it would go something like this (overly dramatic Hollywood action film voice included): The story of how a Korean skincare fanatic and Kimchi devote spent a months worth of pay and developed a stomach of steel while also finding her love for K-Pop in Korea's anicent and beautiful capital.
Cheesiness semi-aside, Seoul is definitely one of the most fascinating cities I have ever visited. Seemingly overlooked by a lot of Western travellers (I didn't meet any other Australians while there) Seoul didn't make me feel that annoying pressure to tick of famous points of selfie sticks. Instead I was filled with desire to just experience anything that I landed my feet and eyes, whether it be a gorgeous tea house or a loud food market full of aggressive stall owners who keep convincing you to eat more and more.
That's not to say that Seoul isn't filled with gorgeous and interesting landmarks and tourist beacons (think the Batman signal with a selfie stick and fanny pack instead of a bat). World Heritage sites such as the Seoul City Wall and Changdeokgung Palace are scattered across the city and sometimes feel like the whole city is visiting them. The two big palaces, Changdeokgung and the cities largest and oldest palace Gyeongbokgung, for example, are constantly filled with young women dressed in traditional Hanbok's selfie sticks and even sometimes tripods with them (pro tip: a Hanbok doesn't really work if you have boobs).
Beyond the walls of the cities many ancient landmarks, however, it is easy to just lose yourself (and the vast majority of tourists) Seoul's tiny streets, hidden restaurants and bars, huge shopping centres and parks.
So without further ado here are my top must do's in Seoul:
To eat:
Gwangjang Market: The food market in Seoul and where I accounted the aggressive but friendly stall owners mentioned above. Expect rows and rows of cheap and delicious Korean street food such as Tteokbokki and Gimbap as well as freshly made Kimchi and fish. Also expect to leave with pants that feel a little too tight.
Tosokchon Samgyetang: This place is famous for their Samgyetang (ginseng chicken soup) , a famous Korean dish which is held in high esteem for its apparent medicinal properties much like Jewish chicken noodle soup, this place is so good its featured on the South Korean governments official tourism website. Almost always busy expect to line up but don't worry its well worth the wait.
Myeongdong: This shopping district, in combination with Hongdae, is one the best places to find not only traditional Korean street foods but also anything new and trendy.
Hongdae: For when you are carving a grilled steak and vegetables sitting on top of a beer.
To see and do:
Gyeongbokgung: The largest, oldest and also the busiest of all of Seoul's palaces this gorgeous 14th century palace was the main royal residence for Korea's most infamous dynasty, the Joseon dynasty, and is one of the Five Grand Palaces of Seoul. Though large, it's fairly central location makes it easy to fit it into the beginning of your day. It is also worth timing your visit to catch the changing of the guard ceremony which happens at 9.35am and at 1.35pm each day.
Changdeokgung: Another of Seoul's Five Grand Palaces this palace is still a very popular tourist destination but is much more tame than Gyeongbokgung especially when it comes to screaming kids and selfie sticks. Like everyone else on the internet I recommend the Huwon gardens which are currently only accessible via a tour.
DMZ and JSA Tour: Thanks to a certain orange toned man child, tensions between North Korea and the west are at there strongest in years and there is no better way to experience and understand this tension then through a tour of the DMZ zone and the JSA. Bonus: it is also the closet you can get to the infamous hermit kingdom without a pricey visa.
Bukchon Hanok Village: Like Gyeongbokgung this place does tend to be filled to the brim with tourists also sometimes dressed in Hanbok's but is well worth visit particularly in the early morning when people are scarce and its easy to get lost in the narrow streets of this traditional village in the heart of the city.
Ihwa Mural Village: Once deemed an unattractive slum and scheduled for demolition this gorgeous little suburb perched on top of Mount Naksan is now an infamous open air street art gallery filled with pieces created by 70 local artists. Like everywhere in Seoul this area does tend to be filled with an alarming number of tourists with many strangely posing for photos in retro school uniforms but is still worth visit especially as its so close to one of Seoul's university precincts and the theatre precinct.
War of Memorial of Korea: For years I thought no other War Memorial would live up to the amazing Australian one in Canberra (which is now the most popular tourist destination in Australia overtaking the Sydney Opera House) but this amazing and moving memorial to the Korean War really blew my mind.
Seodaemun Prison Museum: A living example of the horrors of annexation and colonisation and also the power of resistance, family and culture this Japanese built prison where an estimated 700 Koreans were tortured and executed including Ryu Gwan-sun an 18-year-old high school student. Though perhaps a little depressing to do in all in one day, I highly recommend visiting this museum and the War Memorial of Korea on the same day as the combination helps give you an understanding of Korea's troubled past and the continuing tensions and differences between the North and South.
Bau House Dog Cafe: Full of many cute doggos this cafe also serves some pretty good drinks and is the perfect place to relax after a long day walking.
To shop:
Myeongdong: Though not for the faint of heart or anyone who feels anxious around large crowds this is the place to go shopping if you are short of time and want some bargains on skincare with most stores offering on the spot tax refunds if you have your passport and deals if you buy things in bulk (confession: I may have brought bundles of 100 sheet masks) .
A-land: A multibrand store full of street wear inspired looks from both international and local designers A-land (or Aland) has stores throughout Seoul with favourite being the huge store in Hongdae. Like most stores based in Asia, A-land stocks pieces perfect for all the short and petite people of the world.
Hongdae and Ewha Womens University: These two areas are largely inhabited by the students and millennials of Seoul which makes it is unsurprising that the stores and the markets dotted around these areas are good for bargains and unique pieces.
Cree'mare: Located within a metro station in the now infamous Gangnam area of Seoul (for Sydneysiders it is best described as a Double Bay/Paddington hybrid) this is the skincare store to visit in Seoul. Largely focused on the more natural and boutique side of K-beauty this store stocks brands such as Huxley, Whamisa, Klairs and Blithe and is beyond gorgeous. Though kinda hard to find the brand selection and its very un-Korean non-pushy staff make it worth the trouble.
Stylenanda Pink Hotel: Like A-land Stylenanda stocks street wear inspired pieces with a uniquely Korean twist and though the brand has got multiple storefronts throughout Seoul, their insanely pink and Wes Anderson-esque hotel-themed flagship store in Myeongdong is experience all of its own and takes the concept of a themed store to a whole new level.
