She Went Solo

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Oscar de la Renta FW 13










Truthfully, I was a little afraid and a bit critical of both the idea of John Galliano's residency at Oscar's ateliers and the fact that the media seemed to think that 3 weeks in that position meant that this collection would be completely littered with Galliano's influence.

Although Oscar de la Renta is never the show that really I look forward to from NYFW it also something so ingrained into New York and something that never changes but is never horrible kinda like your favourite blanket or stuffed toy from your childhood. So, even though I was missing Galliano on the runway I didn't want him to override Oscar's easy, signature glamour which makes woman look their best while feeling like a princess.

Luckily my fears and the media's wish that Galliano would basically take over Oscar's collection were mostly unfounded.

This is still an Oscar de la Renta through and through with only quite subtle tinges of Galliano's loud and very obvious design style. From the quilted dresses to the knee length embroidered skirts there is still a lot for Oscar's favourite customers- those sophisticated ladies who lunch- but everything has also been injected with something unique and almost dark.

The evening competent pretty and girly and entirely Oscar, is given a edge that is so very Galliano: there's belted pieces that create a peplum like shape, a nude sparkly and feather number and a variety of modern lines placed together with Oscars princess shapes. Then, there's the beauty side of things and nothing quite gives you that Galliano feel more there dark 20's style make up completed with bleached brows and oily, half-done marcel waves. It's a perfect blend of de la Renta and Galliano and is arguably the best part of the show especially because it's where de la Renta's own style shines at its best.

Galliano meanwhile shines throughout the collection in a way that he almost overtakes Oscar in parts. The first pieces, the structured suits and gorgeous outerwear, though amazing seem more like they belonged at Dior and when combined with the cloche hats it's hard to believe that they are the opening looks for an Oscar de la Renta collection.

The sudden swift from these looks to the more Oscar like quilted dresses and knee length dresses and skirts is almost startling as is the random Galliano esque caped looks that appear in the middle of these classic Oscar pieces and shows probably the only key flaws of the collection: the editing and the obvious distinction between what Galliano had a hand in and what Oscar did in the majority of the looks.

All in all this is a nice collection which would have benefited from some better editing and it's also nice to see the subtle changes that each designer brings out each other in, Galliano is much more refined and held back here while Oscar takes a tiny step away from fairytale dressing, in the looks that aren't too obvious in their maker.